Hiking St Cuthbert's Way - 100Km

From Melrose Scottish Borders to Holy Island Northumberland 

Stage 1 – Melrose to Harestanes (24.5km)

Nature's energy takes me with it

 

As I start this 100km (62-mile) pilgrim route through the Scottish Borders, I'm reminded of the magic and quiet power of a solo hike.

Luckily for me, the waymarking is excellent, so apart from the occasional glance at All Trails, it was easy to follow without getting lost. I could relax and simply enjoy the journey without any map stress.

The day unfolded beautifully. An energising climb through the Eildon Hills rewarded me with stunning views across the Borders, where the distinctive triple peaks have watched over this landscape for centuries. Yellow heather brightened the hillsides, while some challenging stone steps were balanced by beautiful downhill forest paths carpeted with wild garlic flowers.

A peaceful riverside path alongside the River Tweed eventually joined the line of an old Roman road, taking me through green fields and woodland dappled with light before arriving at Harestanes.

I had time to simply be present with nature. Just me and the great outdoors. No distractions.

There is great peace in this.

The Scottish Borders have such a lovely feel. Friendly people, an unhurried pace of life and a landscape full of history. It feels like a good place to be.

The only downside? After 24.5km my legs ache! I haven't attempted this distance for a while, and I struggled to walk up the stairs to my room at the inn.

Hopefully they'll be back in action tomorrow for Stage 2.

Where I stayed.

My arrival accommodation was Mill Cottage, (booking.com) just a short walk outside Melrose itself, and a short taxi ride from the local train station. It was excellent. A beautiful self-contained apartment with everything you could possibly need for a comfortable stay. Jane was especially helpful dropping me and my bags in Melrose on the first day.

My first night after day 1 was The Buccleuch Arms in St Boswells which I returned to after reaching Harestanes. St Boswells, is on the local bus route so easy to get back to Harestanes the next day to continue where I left off.

If I was doing this again I may have chosen to stay at Mill Cottage for 2 nights and completed the first 2 days from there. Jane would pick up and drop off as part of her service if you ask her.

Stage 2 – Harestanes to Morebattle (19.5km)

A pilgrimage is more than a walk in a peaceful landscape

I often get asked what motivates me to go on these solitary long walks. I was wondering myself before I started this one! It has been 18 months since my West Highland Way adventure.

For me, a pilgrimage is a reset. It's not about going away; it's about coming home. Home to myself. To who I am when there is nothing but nature as my companion.

It's interesting how you feel day after day walking a pilgrimage route. Life somehow becomes both simpler and bigger at the same time. Energy feels pure.

I just love it.

Today's route was beautiful. A rich mix of riverside paths, rolling farmland, lush green meadows and peaceful wooded glades filled with some wonderfully characterful trees. Wildflowers seemed to be everywhere, and the route gently wove through the quiet Border countryside that has been travelled for centuries by pilgrims heading towards Lindisfarne.

I also enjoyed a well-earned pint (not very pilgrim-like, I know!) in the Temple Arms in Morebattle while reflecting on another great day.

Where I stayed: 

This was probably the nicest place I stayed. The Old School House (booking.com) in Kelso (just outside Morebattle) This was so much more than just a room for the night. It was an annex adjoined to the main house. It was such a nice, peaceful place to stay after a long day’s walking. Hugh and Annie are great hosts. Annie picked me up and Hugh dropped me back to Wooler in the morning whilst sharing stories of his hiking adventures in the area. I had a wonderful home cooked dinner and breakfast brought to me in my room the old – fashioned way.

Stage 3 – Morebattle to Kirk Yetholm (13km)

Wide Open Hill – Space to Think

Today's walk took me up to Wide-open Hill, both the halfway point and the highest point of St Cuthbert's Way.

The climb was rewarded with beautiful views across the Cheviot Hills, stretching into both Scotland and England. Walking along the ridge between where I'd come from and where I was going felt significant somehow.

This kind of solo time creates space to reflect and create. The quality of thought is different. Deeper. And I love that.

The walk was shorter today, but no less powerful for both body and soul.

Where I stayed:

I stayed in Town Yetholm in Yetholm Bothy, (booking.com) a little self – contained bothy right on the route. This was perfectly formed and perfectly comfortable. After an early evening drink in the pub across the way I was able to relax and prepare my own supper. Highly recommended for a solo traveller or 2 people.

Stage 4 – Kirk Yetholm to Wooler (23km)

Just Me and the Moor

My day started with a steep climb out of Kirk Yetholm, leading up to the Scottish English border.

For a moment I stood with one foot in Scotland and one in England. Then I remembered that I'm actually half Scottish.

Maybe that's why I always feel something when I'm on Scottish soil.

The rest of the walk was just me and the wild moor. Vast open landscapes, purple heather, sweeping skies and barely another person in sight. Just sheep, birds and the occasional rabbit.

With my phone out of charge and my power bank mysteriously missing, I had to trust the way markers completely.

Thankfully they never let me down and guided me safely across the moor and into the welcoming market town of Wooler.

I trusted the path and St Cuthbert. They both gave me exactly what I needed.

Where I stayed:

I had chosen another self-contained mini apartment. Arlington House Hotel – Self Contained apartments (booking.com) was very comfortable and spacious so despite my apartment being on the top floor with no lift (I had luggage) it was all good!

Stage 5 – Wooler to Beal (24km)

The Spirit of St Cuthbert

Who was St Cuthbert? What was his message?

The 7th-century Bishop of Lindisfarne was known as the "Wonder Worker of England”, a monk, spiritual leader and healer who was said to have a deep connection with both people and nature.

I decided to put him to the test by asking if the morning rain might turn into sunshine.

And guess what? The sun came out.

Today's route crossed peaceful farmland, open moorland and woodland before finally reaching the coast, where Holy Island appeared in the distance for the first time.

One of the highlights was stopping at St Cuthbert's Cave, a place where monks sheltered St Cuthbert's remains while fleeing Viking raids after Lindisfarne was attacked. Standing there, you can almost imagine the history that passed through this landscape.

From there I continued to the start of the Pilgrim's Causeway, ready for tomorrow's final walk across the sands.

It was another long day.

I had some lovely conversations with fellow walkers along the way. Some were completing St Cuthbert's Way, while others were simply enjoying this beautiful part of Northumberland.

But mostly...

I talked to sheep.

Where I stayed: 

The Lindisfarne Inn (booking.com) this was pretty much the only place to stay close to the route and close enough to walk down to walk the final stretch across to Holy Island in the morning. It was ok as a place to stay but a bit overpriced being relatively standard compared to my quirkier choices to date which were all experiences that made the trip extra special.

Stage 6 – Beal to Holy Island via the Pilgrim Route and back (19.5km)

The Universe Connects

The last piece of the puzzle.

I left early to follow the final section of St Cuthbert's Way across the sands to Holy Island at low tide. There is only a short window when it's safe to cross, following the traditional pilgrim route marked by tall wooden poles.

Sunlight and those poles guided the way.

I took off my boots.

There was no one else around.

Just me and this magical place.

I took it all in. Every step felt special.

It was the perfect ending to a very special pilgrimage.

I reached Holy Island across the water—literally.

A visit to the ancient Lindisfarne Priory, St Mary's Church and the North Sea coastline completed the circle. This island has been a place of pilgrimage for over 1,300 years, and it was easy to understand why.

I made it safely back across the sands before the tide returned.

Just before the crossing, I met an elderly man preparing to begin his own journey.

He said to me,

"I'm doing this to feel connected to God."

My word would be the universe. A spiritual energy. A feeling of being connected to everything.

Moments like this give me exactly that.

Pure nature.

Nothing else.

Thank you, #StCuthbertsWay. You have given me so much.

Where I stayed: 

I took the bus to Berwick on Tweed and stayed in The Kings Arms Hotel in the centre of town. It was comfortable and well located for an exploratory walk around the town, along the coast, and relatively easy to walk through the town to the train station the next day to make my way back home.